Picture by Nomad WithinBagan (also: Pagan) is home to the largest area of Buddhist temples, pagodas, stupas and ruins in the world, many dating from the 11th and 12th centuries all within a bend of the Irrawaddy River where its east-west course turns and flows south. More than 2,200 have remained until today, scattered over twenty-five square miles of the Bagan plain. Some well maintained, such as the Ananda Pahto, some tumbledown relics overgrown by grass. The earlier buildings were built near the riverbank. Among them are more than 900 temples (around 350 with mural paintings conserved); 500 stupas and 400 monasteries, as well as image houses, libraries and ordination halls.
Bagan became an administration centre in the mid 9th century under King Anawratha, who unified Burma under Theravada Buddhism. He conquered the Pyu and the Mon peoples. From the 9th to 13th centuries, Bagan was the capital of the Kingdom of Bagan, the first kingdom to unify the regions that would later form modern Myanmar. Beneath Theravada Buddhism other types of Buddhism as well as Hinduism and Animism were practiced. Bagan's golden age ended in 1287 when the Kingdom was invaded and sacked by the Mongols.
There are two categories of temples in Bagan: the stupa-style solid temple and the gu-style hollow temple. A stupa, also called pagoda, is a massive structure, typically with a relic chamber inside. In contrast to the stupas, the hollow gu-style temple is a structure used for meditation, devotional worship of the Buddha and other Buddhist rituals. The gu temples have been built in two basic styles: "one-face" design and "four-face" design, what means: one main entrance and four main entrances. Other styles such as five-face and hybrids also exist.
Picture by juandesantMisty Bagan during sunrise
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Picture by stephen_khineOld Bagan
Bupaya Pagoda: Built around 850, destroyed by the 1975 earthquake; rebuilt, now gilded. Read more on orientalarchitecture.com.
Picture by hts1024
By the 11th century, the stupa had developed into a more bell-shaped form in which the parasols morphed into a series of increasingly smaller rings placed on one top of the other, rising to a point. On top the rings, the new design replaced the harmika with a lotus bud. The lotus bud design then evolved into the "banana bud", which forms the extended apex of most Burmese pagodas. Three or four rectangular terraces served as the base for a pagoda, often with a gallery of terra-cotta tiles depicting Buddhist jataka stories. The Shwezigon Pagoda and the Shwesandaw Pagoda are the earliest examples of this type. Another architectural innovation originated in Bagan is the Buddhist temple with a pentagonal floor plan. This design grew out of hybrid (between one-face and four-face designs) designs. The idea was to include the veneration of the Maitreya Buddha, the future and fifth Buddha of this era, in addition to the four who had already appeared. The Dhammayazika and the Ngamyethna Pagoda are examples of the pentagonal design.
Maha Bodhi Phaya: Built in the mid-13th century during the reign of King Htilominlo, and modelled after the Mahabodhi Temple, which is located in Bihar in India. The temple contains a large pyramidal tower with many niches with over 450 images of Buddha. On the ground floor you find a Buddha image with the right hand in earth-touching posture and a similar one in upper storey. See pictures by Alex Bunjes and by Andrej Bogdanov.
Picture by Anuar TOver 450 images of Buddha in the niches
Myoe Daung Kyaung: Most of the significant elements of this monastery are from the pre-colonial Kon-baung period. Its woodcarvings date mostly from the same period of the mid- to late 19th century. See picture by marisa suárez garcía.
Shwesandaw Paya: Built in 1057 by King Anawrahta. There are image houses at four sides, where you discover stone images of Buddha in the posture of Jhana mudra (state of intense concentration of mind). In the eastern dovotional hall, at Loka Nanda Pagoda, you will see a stone Buddha image out of a single piece.
Picture byl Mark Abel
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Picture by R Stanek
Picture by marhasSunset seen from Shwesandaw Pagoda
Ananda Pahto: One of four surviving temples in Bagan. Bagan's holiest temple, built by the third king, Kyan-zit-tha in 1091. Ananda comes from the Pali word "anantapannya", which means "boundless wisdom". The temple houses four Buddhas facing the cardinal directions, which represent the four Buddhas who have attained Nirvana. The fifth, Maitreya, is yet to appear. The Ananda houses approximately 1,500 images on the exterior of the temple and another 1,500 inside, there are corridor-niches on seven levels above the floor. Here you discover the four tallest standing Buddha images in Myanmar; on the exterior plinth there are 554 green glazed terracotta plaques depicting the defeated army of the tempter Mara together with the victorious devas; lining the roof terraces are 912 glazed green terra-cotta Jataka plaques recounting scenes from the previous lives of the Buddha; in the interior halls and corridors there are large sandstone images carved in high relief that illustrate events from the historical Buddha's life. Read more about Ananda Temple by Richard M. Cooler and on orientalarchitecture.com.
Picture by Andy Stewart TH
Picture by Hans A Rosbach
Picture by Hans A Rosbach
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Picture by AnandajotiDeva's Rejoicing
Picture by Hella DeliciousHtilominlo Pahto: 1218. Three storeys and 46 meters tall. Built with red brick and some stone, originally covered in carved white stucco. Read more about Htilominlo Temple by Richard M. Cooler and on orientalarchitecture.com. See gilded Buddha in east entry hall and Buddha in east shrine.
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Picture by Arian Zwegers
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Picture by marhasExamples of the trend toward a more bell-shaped design gradually gained primacy as seen in the Dhammayazika Pagoda (late 12th century) and the Mingalazedi Pagoda (late 13th century)
Sulamani Pahto: The Sulamani Guphaya, or Pahto - the name means means "Crowning Jewel" or "Small Ruby." The complex originally contained a large number of buildings, for example a lecture and ordination hall, cells for the monks and a library. Sulamani was the first and most important temple of the late period (1170-1300) of Bagan monument building. It was built by Sithu II (or Narapatisithu. The red brick temple is step pyramidal on a square base and is oriented to the east. A beautifully wrought sikhara crowns the entire complex. Read more on orientalarchitecture.com.
Picture by Arian Zwegers
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Picture by kudumomoMingalazedi Pagoda: King Narathiha-pate built Mingala Zedi in 1284 on the model of Shwezigon Pagoda, but on a brick platform. The surrounding small stupas are decorated with glazed bricks of green and yellow colours. At the north-east corner there is a small pagoda on Ceylonese model.
Picture by onourownpath.com
Picture by onourownpath.com
Picture markku_aSunset in Bagan, seen from top of Mingalazedi Phaya
"One-face"-style Gawdawpalin Temple and "four-face" Dhammayangyi Temple:
Gawdawpalin Temple: It was built in A. D.1175 by King Narapati-sithu. According to a legend the king had commited a sin against his ancestors. As a punishment his eyes turned blind. Following the advice of Brahmen astrologers he made idols of his ancestors and placed them on thrones. The King worshipped them asking forgiveness for his sin. He regained his sight. Gawdaw Palin Pagoda then was built on the place where the ceremony had taken place. The name Gawdaw Palin means "the throne which was worshipped“. There are four Buddha images on the upper storey and 10 Buddha images in the ground floor. At the north-east corner of the brick platform you find a stone image of sitting Buddha in a house. Read more on orientalarchitecture.com.
Picture by marhas
Picture by marhas
Dhammayangyi: Built between 1167 and 1170, the largest temple in Bagan. King Narathu built and finished it in 3 years. Viewed from a distance its shape is like an Egyptian pyramid. On the eastern side you find a huge Buddha image in the niche. Read more on orientalarchitecture.com.
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Picture by Arian Zwegers
Picture by Hella Delicious
Picture by gforbesThatbyinnyu Phaya: Around 1150. At 61 meters, the tallest temple in Bagan. Read more about Thatbyinnyu temple by Richard M. Cooler.
Picture by HongKongAndy
Picture by marhas
Picture by marhas
Picture by marhasNat Taung Kyaung: Nat Taung Monastery also known at May-taung Taik lies near Taung-bi village. It is said to be the oldest wooden monastery around Bagan. Sylvia Fraser-Lu writes about Nat Taung Kyaung in her book Splendour in Wood. Built on a wooden plattform Nat Taung contains two monasteries, numerous pyathats, pavilions, rest houses and ancillary buildings. Most of the significant elements of the main building are from the pre-colonial Kon-baung period, especially the woodcarvings. After a carefuk restauration Nat Taung tzoday "is a wonderful example of the craftsmen's art, both of the past and the present", writes orientalarchitecture.com and means the avian creatures in the roof decorations, the a-sawï flame-like decorations on the roof lines, the du-yinï prow-like roof ornamentation, the carvings on the bargeboards and the decorations of the balustrades.
Picture by Hella Delicious
Picture by Hella Delicious
Picture by Hella Delicious
Picture by AnandajotiUpali Sima: Also: Upali Thein. Ink writings on the northern wall of the west entrance tell us that King Anawrahta and Maha Thera Upali built and consecrated the ordination hall. It has beautiful frescoes from the Konbaung Period. The structure has four arched entrances. Originally there used to be the picture of a pair of Buddha's foot prints on the eastern arched entrance. The earthquake of 1975 destroyed it.
Picture by AnandajotiNyaung U
Gu Byauk Gyi, Wetkyi Inn: It is said to belong to the early 13th century. The temple takes the model of Maha Bodhi, with a sikhara, double vaulted halls and a spiral stair. It is famous for its frescoes and stucco works.
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Picture by marhasShwezigon Paya: 1102. Golden stupa from 11th century, surrounded by smaller temples and shrines. The pagoda is believed to enshrine a bone and a tooth of Buddha. King Anawrahta's conversion to Theravada Buddhism had a profound influence on Bagan's religious and cultural life. He constructed the Shwezigon as a massive shrine to encase a variety of Buddha artifacts, including a copy of the Tooth of Kandy from Ceylon, frontal and collar bones, and an emerald Buddha image from China. Shwezigon was the first pagoda to allow nat images (pre-Buddhist spirits who had the power to do good or evil) within its walls, as orientalarchitecture.com notes.
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Picture by Stefan Munder
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Picture by marhasThet-kya-Muni: 13th century. Three terrasses with a stupa.
Hmya-tha Umin: From 13th century. Underground temple.
Tha-mee-whet Umin: From 13th century. Underground temple.
New Bagan
Gu Byauk Gyi, Minkaba: This Pagoda stands close to the western side of the Mya Zedi Pagoda. It was built in 1113 by Prince Yaza Kumaya as cave pagoda. Gu Byauk Gyi Pagoda has many ornamental artworks. The dormer window lets in the light to fall directly upon the big images.
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Picture by marhasMya Zedi Pagoda: Next to the Gubyaukgyi stands the gilded Myazedi or Emerald Stupa. A four-sided pillar in a cage between the two monuments bears an inscription written in four languages - Pyu, Mon, Old Burmese and Pali. The Mya Zedi Pagoda Festival is held every year, around the middle of the month of August. People come in all sorts of animal costumes made from paper. Dancing they compete for the prize of the best dancing animal.
Picture by marhasManuha Pagoda: The Manuha Buddha image was made in 1067 by a Mon king named Manuha the king of Thaton. Facing east are three immense images of sitting Buddha. At their back, facing west, lies an incumbent Buddha statue, which is 27 meters long.
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Picture by abrinskyPrayers in the entrance hall
Picture by ken--Buddha image in Pari-nivirna mudra (dying posture) at the back.
Picture by Jacques Beaulieu
Picture by abrinskyA work of art in brick, in the small brick pagoda behind the Manuha Guphaya Pagoda
Naga Yon Hpaya: One of the oldest monuments of Bagan, from the end of the 11th century. It was built by King Kyansittha (1084-1113). The central shrine contains a huge standing image of the Buddha protected by the hood of a naga serpent. The walls have niches holding stone sculptures depicting the Buddhas previous to Gotama, as well as paintings showing scenes from the Jatakas and the Final Life of Gotama Buddha, with legends in Mon and Paii. The name Nagayon means "Protected by the Naga Serpent".
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Picture by marhasDhammayazika Paya: From 1196–1198.
Picture by Arian ZwegersRead more about the pagodas and temples:
The Pagan Period: Burma's Classic Age - 11th To 14th Centuries
5 Secret Places in Bagan to Avoid the Crowds
Sunrise and Sunset in Bagan
First see Bagan Sunrise and Sunset Times. The sun rises in the east, if you are in Old Bagan, this is behind the airport. The sun sets behind Tangyi Mountain (over the Irradwaddy). If you have the pagodas between you and the sun, you will see their black silouettes under the rising/setting sun. If you are between the sun and the pagodas, these will be lighted up in deep orange during sunrise.
Buledi temple is a place for sunrise. You climb up the stairs until the third level of the temple. Don't forget your torch light. Read Bagan's Temple of the Rising Sun. And see picture by LEGAL nomads.
Mee Nyein Gone Paya is a place for sunrise, from here you have all temples in one line in front of your camera.
Lawkaoushaung Temple is a place for sunrise with its second and third floor patios above the tree line.
Shwezigon Pagoda is a place good for sunrise and sunset, thanks to its central location. Read That Magical Bagan Sunrise.
How to move in and around Bagan
You can rent a horse cart with a driver for around USD 5-12 per day. At least one driver seems to be very knowledgable, his name is Aung Aung, his cart number 149, you can look for him outside Tharabar Gate, as lauriecoconutgrove tells us on tripadvisor.com. Or you rent a bicycle for 1 USD per day. There is not that much car traffic on the streets. A pleasant time for cycling is the morning, before it gets hot. Of course you can also get a taxi.
Read more:
Where to sleep in Bagan
Mouthwatering Food in Bagan: Reviews of restaurants
Strolling in the streets of Bagan
In Bagan, Child Guides Eke Out a Living for Their Families
Minnanthu - a village in the Bagan area
